By SHELAGH BRALEY STARR
RELATED☘️ Staff
Irish recipes carry something magical within them no matter the time of year, passed from Mam to daughter. But Christmas brings the extra-special dishes made with simplicity and love, brought to life with stories.
The Christmas dinner table in Ireland overflows with platters. According to Paul Devoy, executive chef at Clontarf Castle in Dublin, the traditional meal consists of three courses. It starts with a simple soup (potato leek or perhaps a country vegetable), then opens up to a buffet spread of our dreams. Glazed ham and/or roasted turkey, in some places spiced beef. Herb-bread stuffing with onion, parsley, and sage, as well as multiple preparations of potato. Devoy is fond of the humble roasted potato, but can’t leave traditional champ off the table—finely sliced spring onions mixed into a buttery, creamy mashed potato. A variety of roasted vegetables grace the table as well, carrots, parsnip, brussel sprouts with cherries and chestnuts. Don’t forget a bit of cranberry sauce for a bright bite.
All that sounds mouthwatering, doesn’t it? But nothing can top the dessert tray for the traditional flavors of Ireland. Here’s one to try if you feel like bringing a taste of Ireland to your family this year.
Irish Plum Pudding
Have you ever tasted plum pudding? Theodora Fitzgibbons, longtime food writer for the Irish Times and one of the founding members of the Irish Food Writers’ Guild, made and shared this very recipe every year.
This is one of those beloved traditional recipes retrieved from the old folder each Christmas, greasy newsprint yellowed with age. If you’re lucky, you have one of those original clippings! But if not, we’ll share that treasure with you now.
This traditional Irish dessert is spiced just right and packed with sweet fruit—but not too sweet.
As you’d expect with an Irish recipe (much like barmbrack for Samhain), there are some traditions, funny old superstitions if you will, that go along with this one. Take them as you like, but I’d be remiss if I didn’t let you know!
Here they are:
* Many make this plum pudding with 13 ingredients to represent Jesus and the apostles.
* Every member of the family should take a turn stirring the pudding with a wooden spoon from east to west, in honor of the Three Kings.
* If you make a wish as you stir your pudding, it is said to come true before Christmas morning.
* When serving, add a sprig of holly on top for good luck in the coming year.
Have you heard of any of these traditions before? I never miss a chance to make a wish, just in case.
This recipe is a little different because it isn’t baked, it’s steamed (though you can bake it in a steam bath if you’d rather). It isn’t hard to prepare, it just takes some patience. (You can even steam it in a slow cooker to make it easier for yourself.)
This recipe has been handed down through generations, so it’s time-tested. I think you’ll like it if you like dense, moist fruit cake. Every bite, lashed with brandy butter, says it’s Christmas.
IRISH PLUM PUDDING (by Theodora Fitzgibbon, famous Irish-food writer)
Makes two small cakes
Ingredients
3.5oz/100g plain or self-rising flour, well sifted
2 tsp ground cinnamon
2 tsp mixed spice or ground nutmeg (Mixed spice makes the nicest little gift in a jar if you make extra, recipe below)
350g fresh white breadcrumbs (from bread not more than two days old)
50g ground almonds
225g brown sugar
1 carrot, grated
Finely grated rind and juice of 1 orange and 1 lemon
225g each sultanas (aka golden raisins), seedless raisins, and currants
100g chopped glacé cherries
175g chopped mixed peel (Homemade is amazing if you’ve never had it, recipe below)
225g grated cold butter
300ml Guinness
4 Tbsp rum, whiskey, or brandy
5 eggs
DIRECTIONS:
1. Put the prepared fruit and all dry ingredients into a large bowl and mix well.
2. Make a well in the bowl and add the grated rind and juice of the orange and lemon and grated carrot. Mix again.
3. Beat the eggs and add them gradually, stirring well.
4. Finally, add the butter, stout and spirits, mixing together thoroughly.
5. Put into 2 x 1-liter greased bowls, cover with parchment paper and then tie a cloth over. (If necessary, they can be left overnight.)
6. Steam or boil, with the water coming up to the rim, for 7 hours, topping up with water as it runs dry. When cooked, uncover and let steam out. Don’t be alarmed if they are not dark brown, this comes with age. Re-cover lightly with parchment paper and the following day, tie up with clean cloths. Before serving, steam or re-boil for 2 hours.
NOTE: Here is a quality set of pudding bowls in the right size if you don’t have any and you want to give this recipe a try. Don’t forget to grease them first.
If you would rather bake than steam, puddings can be cooked in the oven in the following way: Put the prepared pudding bowls in a large roasting pan, three-quarters full of hot water. Cover the pudding completely with aluminum foil and bake at 150°C/300°F/ for 6 hours. You could do it in a slow cooker in a water bath as well.
The extras, optional but lovely! Here they are.
BRANDY BUTTER
Ingredients
250 g softened unsalted butter
250 g icing sugar, sifted
4 T boiling water
6 T brandy
DIRECTIONS:
1. Cream together the butter and icing sugar in a bowl.
2. Beat in the boiling water and brandy a little at a time until smooth.
3. Transfer to a serving dish and chill until time to serve.
MIXED SPICE
Ingredients
1 Tbsp ground allspice
1 Tbsp ground cinnamon
1 Tbsp ground nutmeg
2 tsp ground mace
1 tsp ground coriander
1 tsp ground ginger
1 tsp ground cloves
DIRECTIONS:
1. Measure each spice into a bowl.
2. Mix well with a whisk.
3. Store in an airtight container and keep in a dry pantry, will keep for six to nine months.
CANDIED CITRUS MIXED PEEL
Makes 4 cups
Ingredients
2 grapefruits, preferably organic
3 oranges, preferably organic
4 lemons, preferably organic
8oz/2 cups sugar
8oz/250ml/1 cup sugar
DIRECTIONS:
1. Cut each citrus in half and juice. Reserve the juice for another purpose and do not use a squeeze juicer as it will damage the peel.
2. Cut each citrus into quarters and, using a paring knife, carefully pull out the inside pith and membrane.
3. Slice the citrus quarters into 1/4-inch-wide strips.
4. Put the citrus strips into a heavy saucepan and add enough water to cover them. Bring to a boil over high heat and blanch for 5 minutes.
5. Drain and repeat Step 4 two more times.
6. While the citrus peels are draining the third time, put the sugar and water into the heavy saucepan and bring to a boil, stir to dissolve the sugar.
7. When the sugar is dissolved, add the citrus peel and boil gently for 30 minutes. Stir occasionally to ensure the peels do not burn.
8. Remove the peel with a slotted spoon and leave to cool for about 30 minutes. Reserve the syrup for another use, perhaps a flavouring for ice tea. Set a rack over a parchment-lined rimmed baking sheet.
9. Put the peel into a clean bowl and pour over 1 cup sugar and mix well. Spread the sugared peel on the wire rack and leave to dry. The drying process can take 2, maybe even 3, days.
10. Once fully dry, store candied mix peel in an airtight container in a cool, dry place for up to 1 month.
NOTE: * Since most pesticide residue is found in the skin, it’s good to use organic fruit if you can when making candied peel.
May your holiday table be blessed with all you can eat, and may you be surrounded by the love of your family and friends this holiday season.
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