By SHELAGH BRALEY STARR
RELATED☘️ Staff
THOMASTOWN, CO. KILKENNY—Autumn arrives with a kind of quiet drama on the grounds of Mount Juliet Estate. The paths burn gold and copper, the River Nore moves with unhurried certainty, and the great house seems to gather the season into itself, ready for tea and company.
For first-time visitors to Ireland, Mount Juliet is a welcome first stop, or for those in the know, satisfying enough to sustain your whole visit. This recently restored five-star Georgian manor is the definition of elegant Irish country living, sitting atop 500 acres of rolling green pastures, just a 20-minute drive from Kilkenny center and less than 2 hours from Dublin Airport.
There’s much to do once you arrive on property. First, take in the luxe-appointed surroundings. Guinness cannot taste better anywhere other than relaxing in the courtyard. Play a round of chess in front of the fire, where you’ll take your afternoon tea with all its treats and indulgences. Choose from refined Michelin-starred cuisine at Lady Helen or more cozy, sophisticated dining at the Hound or Jack’s Bar. Relax, finally, to the sounds of the pianist in the foyer, or chat with the charming resident historian, Sean Maher, who will happily regale you with Mount Juliet’s storied past.
Once you have toured the magnificent gardens, had a relaxing swim in the conservatory pool or visited the spa-treatment suites—what jet lag?—you have still barely scratched the surface of MJ pastimes. Swing the clubs at a Jack Nicklaus-designed championship golf course, fish for salmon and wild brown trout in either of the two rivers, or watch, awestruck, the aviary skill of falconry.
But come autumn, with the changing season and all this placid estate holds—don’t miss the most sensory-pleasing activity you have available: Visit the MJ Equestrian center and fall in love.
Horseback riding here feels like an entry into the older rhythms of this countryside, something rooted in the landscape and whispering Irish wisdom from Lady Juliet Butler herself.
The estate’s equestrian experience unfolds at a pace that suits the land. Saddle up and set out beneath turning leaves, following tracks that wind through woodland, open pasture, and lovingly kept grounds, the estate revealing itself gradually as you meander. There is a particular pleasure in seeing Ireland this way: the softened light through the trees, the scent of damp earth and fallen leaves, the trickle of rushing water and the sudden rise of the river as you stop and take it all in. It also bears a certain grandeur to ride up to an ivy-wreathed mansion, waving hello to the guests who marvel at your arrival. Our guide took our photo, but the memory would be with me forever, even if she didn’t.
For experienced equestrians, the terrain offers beauty, peace, and variation. I saddled up Maggie, a delightful creamy-white Irish draught. She was the perfect size at 16 hands, and easy to ride for her gentle grace. My husband fell in love with Sherman, the newest addition to the team, a huge Clydesdale that was determined to either woo or annoy Maggie. For newcomers, there is the thrill of stepping into an adventure both cinematic and rooted in the history of everyday rural Ireland. My 12 year old bonded with Pepsi, a perfectly sassy Connemara/Cob mix, among the smallest in the barn at 14.2 hands. Our guide gently walked alongside, keeping Pepsi on track while still giving him the sense of being in charge. One ride and he was hooked.
The clip of hooves on estate paths, the sweep of trees along the river, the weather shifting by the hour, all of this evokes an Ireland that is elegant and lived-in. None of it feels staged. Our guides genuinely love these animals and take great care to protect them while generously sharing them.
“The best thing for me is new people coming to Mount Juliet to ride, sharing the experience that I get to have every day here,” said Tara Kelly, who has been manager of MJ Equestrian for more than 20 years. “I get to see the estate through new eyes every time I bring someone out, so it makes me appreciate the place even more. Because I love the horses so much, it’s lovely to see people coming in so enthusiastic and falling in love with them too.”
What distinguishes riding at Mount Juliet is the combination of polish and intimacy. There is the sense of being in an estate of real stature, yet also the reassuring warmth of the staff that makes even occasional riders feel at ease. Aloud, we regretted not clipping sugar cubes from our tea, to reward our horses for giving us the best afternoon. Upon hearing this, our guide went to her car and took apples from her very own lunch to grant our wish. “Apples are sure better than sugar cubes—especially when it’s time for their dental work,” our guide Paula said with a laugh, the horses happily lipping apple snacks from our palms.
They each have their favorites, Kelly told us, but hers, of course, is Maggie, the most requested horse for weddings on site, so brides can arrive in white-horse style. “I’m biased, she’s my horse. She’s just so gentle and lovely,” Kelly said. “Other than that, I love Sherman and Captain (a 15-year old bay Irish sport horse, 17 hands, who loves water and a bit of jumping),” she said. “They bring that big horse energy, but they are so calm and know how to make people feel safe.”
The Mount Juliet Equestrian experience is available year-round, including the autumn and winter months, but riding is weather-dependent. All necessary equipment is available for use at the well-appointed center, including riding boots, helmets, and body protectors.
Autumn in Ireland is a special season, alive with the changing colors of nature. Pause at Mount Juliet, reawaken your senses, your connection to the land, and let the horses show you what you’ve been missing. They know the way.
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